- Basic ideas.(more for my own edification)
- On a sunny day, with 100 iso film, set your aperture to 16 and shutter to 1/125.
- As light decreases, you must step down either aperture or shutter speed from there.
- Changing aperture to achieve longer or shorter depth of field requires an equal change in the opposite direction for shutter.
Basically. Some obvious ideas, sure. But with the exposure sheet linked above, having an idea of lighting conditions and the associated EV number makes it much easier to choose correct - or nearly correct - exposure settings. Cool thing too... I can run at F22, 1/60 on sunny days to create a focus buffer for street. And, I've still got some shutter wiggle room with a rangefinder camera because of no mirror slap vibrations.
Mirror Slap - From PhotoNotes.org
- Mirror slap refers also to the physical vibrations inside the camera induced by the movement of the reflex mirror. These vibrations can be a problem when using long telephoto lenses or when shooting with slower shutter speeds, as they can induce small but noticeable camera motion blur in an image. For this reason mirror lockup or mirror pre-fire is often used under these conditions.
mm... mirror slap. Rangefinder cameras don't have this problem. They do, however, have a separate issue with image parallax - though not so bad as twin lens cameras.
Must. Memorize. Grids!
PS: Fox's gala Apple Pie? OMG So good....
Lastly: Vintage Camera Porn! (flickr sets, sfw)